Colcannon, Made for the Middle

Colcannon, Made for the Middle

When colcannon came to our table, the serving bowl went down in the middle and everyone leaned in for a spoonful. I remember the soft potatoes, the green flecks of cabbage, and that small pool of butter that seemed to refill itself. It is a simple dish, but it never felt like an afterthought.

Potatoes and greens together

Colcannon is an Irish dish made by bringing potatoes together with cabbage or kale, often with butter and milk. There isn’t just one family version; the greens and seasoning can change with what is on hand. I use cabbage and scallions here, a combination that keeps the potatoes creamy while adding a gentle bite.

Gather the ingredients

For 4 generous servings, use 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks; 4 tablespoons butter; 1 cup milk; 4 cups thinly sliced green cabbage; and 4 sliced scallions. Set aside salt and black pepper for seasoning. Yukon Golds mash smoothly without losing their comforting, slightly buttery character.

Cook the greens first

Put the potatoes in a pot, cover them with cold water, and salt the water well. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 15 to 20 minutes, until a knife slides easily into the center of a potato. Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a skillet, add the cabbage with 2 tablespoons of water, and cook over medium heat until tender, about 6 to 8 minutes.

Warm the milk with the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter, then drain the potatoes and return them to the pot. Mash in the warm milk mixture until soft, but stop before the potatoes turn gluey. Fold in the cabbage and scallions, season with salt and pepper, and taste once more before serving.

Leave room for butter

Spoon the colcannon into a warm bowl and make a shallow well on top for a little extra butter to melt into. It works beside a roast, but it is satisfying enough to be supper with brown bread and nothing more. The part I remember best is not the exact amount of cabbage; it is making sure the bowl reached everyone at the table.